7. Mozambique to Malawi

We travelled in north eastern Zim through amazing scenery of bare rock boulders, some over a kilometre long, reminiscent of Namibia but with patches of vegetation. Through two border crossings, one Zim to Mozambique into and across the Tete corridor which was featured a lot in the news during the Mozambique war and during the struggles in Zimbabwe. We climbed up to about 1700metres and dropped to 173metres at Tete as we crossed the Zambezi. Incidentally we worked out that Tete is about 700 kms from the Indian Ocean, so the river winds its way very slowly from here.

The second border (2 in one day) into Malawi from Mozambique was fraught with money changers and ‘eager’ young men insisting that they will help us, when really we are quite capable of finding our own way through the technicalities. The whole process took a long time so that we finally entered Malawi just before dusk at 5.30pm. Nowhere to stay so we pushed on to Blantyre, driving in the dark on these roads with uncertain surfaces and vehicles with no, lights, lights that don’t dip, not to mention thousands of people, bicycles, donkeys, ox carts and wandering livestock that clutter the potholed edges of these narrow broken tar roads. We eventually found a ‘lodge’ owned by a Malawian family (the daughter is married to a Welshman and has a Welsh accent) and used by NGOs, at about 7.30pm. Very friendly people and the en suite room was adequate.

We chatted to 2 American women who are involved with Medicine San Frontiere, various medics and a chap from the Liverpool School of Tropical Medicine who is involved with collating info from a range of research programmes. This was the night that the little mouse met his maker!

We headed for Lilongwe via the scenic route when again we became frustrated at the number of police checks, 12 in about 100k stretch. They all asked to see driving licence and insurance documents. Then one very diligent policewoman checked the lights too and was determined that the reversing light was not working, so tried to fine us for that, offering to reduce the fine too!. Terry argued our case and we were allowed to go! Unfortunately later, having been directed/driven off the road by an important looking cavalcade of 4x4s with blacked out windows we were fined for speeding. Fair cop, we paid up and continued.

Our arrival at Barefoot Safaris campsite where we stayed last year was a welcome relief. Stayed here for a few days whilst Terry did his usual vehicle checks and was able to rectify them, using Erwin .(a mechanic who used to work for Barefoot) who changed the back springs last year. He is a very together chap, determined to get on in the world so was pleased to get a bit of extra work from us he helped us too as he has lots of contacts. However  the back door lock was jamming, one light wasn’t working, a brake pipe had broken, a hub seal had gone, and the ‘stub’ end seal  too. Parts were difficult to find as it was a public holiday, we were saved by the Muslim population who don’t all close on Christian holidays.

We eventually drove on down to Cool Runnings campsite at  Senga Bay  on Lake Malawi  where we delivered the 26 football kits from South Cave, thanks to Norman and Wendy and the World Cup footballs that we bought in Cape Town, thanks to Ted for these and the text books from Sally’s colleagues in Pontefract Hospital. Samantha, who runs Cool Runnings is heavily involved in lots of projects was very grateful and promised that she will send photos of the teams next time they play, resplendent in their new gear. She took us to visit the library which has taken 4 years to stock as well as popping in to visit the pre-school where I couldn’t resist teaching the stand up, sit down song (Laxton group style!)—pic evidence will be on the blog soon!

Whilst at CR the sunrises have been particularly beautiful over the lake, so of course I have been up before dawn, woken by a very noisy unidentified bird, each morning to watch the world wake up, a special pleasure.

Today we are heading down to Blantyre to restock spare parts for the L/R then into Mozambique in the next few days to the project in Mocuba that we are keen to help.

6. Zimbabwe (Part 2)

The Bradt guide to Zimbabwe had described 2 routes to get to Mana Pools Game Reserve, the route along the southern side of Lake Kariba, 300kms of  rough tracks but one of the most beautiful routes in Zim, or round the tar via Bulawayo, Kwekwe, and Harare, about 900kms. We had met farmers Dave and Jeannie at Ivory Lodge the night before, they have been living on the shores of Lake Kariba for 3 years and invited us to visit—decision made, the scenic route it was!

We arrived at Binga (a once popular Tiger fishing resort, now a little shabby) after about 2 hours along semi decent tar. Camped at a lodge called Masuma overlooking the lake, lovely views of islands and bays and across to Zambia, unfortunately we found we had a mouse stowaway in the LR, not sure where he boarded, but he seems to like the accommodation and remained despite our thorough cleanout!

The next morning we were given a very interesting tour of the crocodile farm by Dave who has been involved there building new facilities so that they can produce to EEC regulations. The largest crocs we walked passed in the breeding ponds were about 4 metres long, behind a metal chain link fence, he warned us to walk to the other side of the quite narrow path in case they took a fancy to us! No lunges but a mock one at me (J) and tail flick was scary enough, another female (Dave says you can tell the difference ‘coz they are prettier!) looked very bored and just hissed and grinned at us as we passed by.

D and J invited us to their leaving party that evening where we met some of the other Binga residents . Angus and Hazel (3^rd generation Zimbabweans) have lived there since 1958 when they were sent to work on a feeding programme when the Lake was just the River Zambezi, they then started a fishing lodge then the croc farm, now retired. Hazel reminded me of Princess Diana’s grandmother! Alan and Karen, a Cockney couple told us they had made a ‘shedload of money’ from being ‘tip rats’---his words—then selling the fridges and cookers to Africa, now run the local Spar shop. Most of the others were Zimbabweans who had built and lost various businesses now all happily living there, some under meagre circumstances and none having any idea what the future holds.

Over breakfast next morning D and J told us their story. They too are 3^rd and 4^th generation Zimbabweans, Jeannie’s grandfather established the farm in the late 1800s. Their farm, in the Eastern Highlands was mostly timber, with cattle, cut flowers for export, and tobacco. The smallest paddock being 16000 hectares! Anyway the Land reform programme took 50% of the farm and during this time Dave was badly beaten up, his life was saved only by the bravery of one of their flower pickers, They then had to ‘sell’ 51% of the remainder to an indigenous Zim company,  and were  now on their way back to a court hearing to learn the fate of the rest.  They are very positive, their kids have returned to Zim and the ‘Can do’ attitude will serve them well. We wished them all the best in this new Zimbabwe.

The route from Binga through to the A1 was as the Bradt guide had predicted. We passed Batonga villages on stilts, these are the peoples who were displaced when the Dam was built and still live a traditional lifestyle, hence the photo of the Batonga axes on the blog. We were told that the axes were used to clean meat from the bones. The badly degraded gravel road wound through mountainous scenery and over rivers, sometimes we needed to engage low box to cross where the water has eroded the road, leaving gaping channels filled with boulders. We decided to push on, but if there is a next time will try to visit Matusadona Game Reserve and take more time over this section. It was remote, we only saw about 3 vehicles all day and the continuous lurching about caused the back bar of the roof rack to break. Friends Richard and Becky had welded the front in Cape Town, (thanks guys) we should have reinforced the back too.

When we got back onto a main route accommodation was limited. We stayed the night at a ‘lodge’ called Twin Rivers but there was no room at the Inn. They were very welcoming and agreed that we could camp in the garden for $20 and use the facilities in the lodge.  Fine. Interesting to note that the power soon failed for the night, they had to start the generator using an old car. Later we noticed that the security guard was fully employed carrying buckets of water into the lodge, so they must have had no water either. Good job we are self sufficient!

Travelling has become much more difficult since we left Botswana, as tourism here is not so established. Sad to say too we are sometimes conscious of our skin colour. Whilst checking in to Twin Rivers and feeling like fish out of water we heard a Brummie accent – tones of home! It turned out to be a lovely 6ft 5in tall Zim chap called Dudley who is a safari guide, very chatty and comfortable with white folk. By absolute coincidence we bumped into him again 3 days and 500kms later!

We had to go into Karoi to find someone to weld the roof rack, there was still no power so we had to make do with gas welding using fencing wire for rods, they did well, charging the mzungus $35 for a 5 minute job! But this is after all Africa.

We went north again to explore Mana Pools, it is as they claim the gem of all the game reserves in Zim, in terms of game but mostly because of its location. We camped right on the bank of the Zambezi River, downstream  from the Dam wall and spent 2 nights here serenaded by hippo and hyena with the occasional roar of the mighty lion. Terry went for a shower during one of the evenings after dark and I was left sitting happily watching the potjie pot when I suddenly became aware that I was not alone! An elephant was padding quietly towards our camp, so I stood up and moved initially towards the fire, he saw me and thankfully just flapped his ears, tossed his head and diverted around the front of the LR. I peeped from behind the LR to see him quietly munching on some branches and was very relieved when Terry returned!

On to Harare where we had planned to stay in the Cresta hotel (no camping in Harare), however whilst en route and searching for a supermarket  (as we still had the travelling mouse on board and hoped to buy a mouse trap) we asked a guy for directions to a supermarket. We followed him through rush hour Harare traffic to Bon Marche he suggested that Cresta was in a seedy part of town and that the Bronte Hotel would be more appropriate! We took his advice and stayed there just 2 blocks away from State House. It was interesting to surmise what role the other, obviously international guests were doing there, most seemed to be on some sort of business. It’s good to see how Zimbabwe has changed since they dropped the Zim $ and started using the US $. Obviously with a stable currency people can invest and so the shops now have stock instead of empty shelves. This knocks on to the whole feel of the place and it shows.

Tomorrow we set off to cross the Tete corridor in Mozambique to Malawi, two border crossings in one day – we’ll see how it goes!

5. Zimbabwe (Part 1)

Whilst at Chobe Safari Lodge the usual L/R check up confirmed a broken front spring and the handbrake adjustment had backed off again - shades of last years parking in the garden! Fortunately after last years searches for spares here in Kasane we know all the places to try, some of them even recognised us from last year, and a spring was sourced and fitted in less than half a day. We are lucky that Terry can do these things.

We left Kasane next morning after a short game drive and said our goodbyes to Richard. 

Then drove across the border into Zimbabwe where we camped at Vic Fall Rest camp, with leafy lawns under trees, swimming pool and lovely hot showers. We could hear the Falls thundering through the gorge about 2 or 3 km away.

Zimbabwe is so far fantastic, the people are exceptionally pleased to see us. They use an almost ritualised formal greeting, exchange of names with the typical African handshake (hand, thumb, hand, thumb, whilst their other hand grasps their right forearm) and we enquire about each other's health. They seem proud of their country everywhere we go, and unlike our brief visit in 2008 where Vic Falls town was crawling with money changers and the Zim Dollar was worthless now the currency used here is US dollars and the shops are fairly well stocked. I was even able to use my UK debit card in the supermarket! Incidentally they use only $ notes so change is often given in sweets. The standard in town taxi fare is 50 cents, so taxi drivers give change at an exchange rate of 12 billion Zim Dollars. The change can then be used for your next taxi ride and this informal exchange rate is stable..

We visited the Falls again, first time in '75,at Christmas time, next Aug 2008 and now again. Each time has been a totally different experience because of the differing volumes of water over the Falls. Apparently 50,000 cubic metres of water plunge almost 1.5 kms down to the bottom of the gorge.

We could only see one small section, the rest were obscured by the torrential downpour as the mist and spray rained down on the tropical forest and micro-climate that surrounds the Falls. We were drenched but had luckily hired waterproofs from an enterprising Shona man in the car park, who insisted that he paid in Rand.TIA !! At least the camera stayed mostly dry!

The next few days we spent exploring the northern parts of Hwange game reserve, the scenery around the Sinamatella escarpment is dramatic, and the game density improved as we drew closer to Main Camp, we were lucky to see Sable antelope as well as the usual others.  One achievement that we are very proud of is that we successfully made bread in the potjie pot on the fire!!! This park is a pleasure as at the present time there are very few visitors and even fewer safari vehicles, so the solitude was one of it's best features. There seem to be a plethora of PHDs being undertaken here (EEC funded)-- lions, hyena, wild (or painted) dog, giraffe, elephant-- apparently at the last count there were 40,000 eles in the park, almost more researchers than visitors!  One fact that we remarked on was the unusually large number of elephant carcasses, we were later told of a cull in Sept last year. We hired a scout to take us on a morning walk, it was most enjoyable to listen to him telling us about the habits of the giraffe who stood and watched us and the jackal who looked and ran away. After getting to know him a bit more he told us that he had been a soldier during the struggle, not sure which side he was on, he was very familiar with the AK47 that he carried, just in case of a close encounter with lion or elephant.   Another lovely wild experience there was camping in one of the picnic sites, alongside a waterhole, we were alone except for the attendant Agripper with his wife and little daughter, they were so keen and welcoming, the whole site was spic and span, all the leaves swept away by 7am and the loo floors polished so that you could almost see your face in them.

We spent a night at a great lodge called Ivory and true to its name we witnessed at least 3 families of elephant about 3-4 metres from the hide where we were sitting. There were probably about 50 elephant there over the course of almost 2 hours, and watching them meet and greet, help, push and tussle with each other was a joy.. This followed by a moonlit dinner served under the stars with other guests from Zimbabwe, RSA and USA was a great way to start our time alone on this, probably last time we will undertake such a huge trip through this continent??!

4. More Botswana

We arrived in Maun on Sunday 25 and felt very fortunate to be able to stay here at Discovery again where Marije and Rene made us feel most welcome. We planned to leave first thing on Tuesday morning, but found a small problem with the starter solenoid in the LR, so stayed for another night. Fortunate really as we had almost 1 inch of rain during the day on Tues. All was well as Terry changed the starter solenoid and we were away by just after lunch, having popped to Hilary's for lunch, for old times sake!

We drove up to Mankwe to meet up with Richard who had gone on ahead on Tues. Unfortunately there was a scarcity of game here too, although we heard lion roaring during the night, quite close by, after yet another electric storm lasting about an hour, this time it was right overhead so the claps of thunder made me jump right out of my skin.

Our game viewing improved from the next morning, when we almost bumped into a herd of elephant and tracked a group of lion along the main road for at least 5 kms, but sadly still no real sightings of cats. 

Lion Tracks

We watched elephant playing in the water, then throwing dust over their backs to clean themselves of parasites and saw small herds of zebra, lots of impala, and a couple of lechwe. So this really feel like Africa now. We spent Thurs night wild camping on the Khwai Community Campsite in an absolutely beautiful spot under tall Acacia trees and clear starry skies, where we had beef fillet and veg in a potjie-- delicious.

We travelled on through Savuti where there is now a bridge across the flowing Savuti channel. The new tar road that the Chinese were building last year has recently been opened so we had time to drive alongside the Chobe River where the game viewing was spectacular at last. As well as the usual we saw probably about 1500 buffalo in the pouring rain, and lots of groups of giraffe. 

Then just as we were starting to think about rushing to the lodge we saw a pride of lion with 4 babies, so watched them racing around, play fighting and rolling about, seemingly, just for fun, the photos unfortunately don't do justice to the experience.

We raced on up to Kasane where we stayed at Chobe Safari Lodge for yet more R&R!  En route there was an ominous 'twang' and on investigation this morning Terry found that one of the front springs has broken! (We changed the back springs last year so apparently it was only a matter of time, and v bumpy roads 'til the front ones went)

Latest Photos have been uploaded to FLICKR and the live map is constantly being up dated with our progress